Day 21-25 La Paz and the “Death” Road to Coroico

Whew. What a fun and active last few days we have had! We’ve explored the winding streets of La Paz, avoided Bolivian protests, been to an amazing football game, survived the death road and are now in a secluded jungle hostel in the Yungas relaxing and catching our breath.

Late on Monday night we arrived in La Paz, and went straight to a hotel that Tim had found in our travel book. It was at the high end of our budget for accommodation ($15 US per person per night) at a whopping $180 Bolivianos a night and it was SO worth the investment. We had a real hot shower rather than an electric heated one! Let me pause to explain the trials of the electric shower: most showers in South America are heated by small electric boxes attached to the top of the shower head. If you turn the water pressure on too high it won’t be able to heat all the water so most showers must be trickles with barley any pressure at all if you want them warm. Also, if you happen to touch anything metal, like an ungrounded shower knob or head you will get shocked. We learned this the hard way. Electric showers are more like playing Russian roulette than having a relaxing, cleaning experience.  Anyway, I digress, our hotel in La Paz had a real hot shower and a nice warm, soft bed and we slept like kings and didn’t mind that we weren’t saving money. And no matter, since we were still under our accommodation budget of $30/night. It is so cheap to travel in Bolivia! We love it! 

We spent Tuesday and Wednesday wandering the streets of La Paz, which is anything but peaceful, as its name in Spanish suggests. We had been warned by our taxi driver that there would be protests while we were there and indeed, protests were one of the first sights (and sounds!) that greeted us when we walked down to the nearest plaza on Tuesday morning. There were, seemingly, thousands of angry Bolivian teachers, nurses, students and other government workers marching in the streets with banners, loudspeakers and costumes. Police, with riot shields, closed off the roads and stood around, unfazed by the blasts of handheld sticks of dynamite detonated by the protesters. This seemed so wild to me and Tim, but I guess it is business as usual in Bolivia. All was safe and legal. How strange!  

We mostly avoided the protests (Thanks to Simeon, our PC Safety and Security officer, who instilled in us the ever-present desire to avoid “red zones”!) and instead went to the Coca Museum and learned about the history, mythical legends and legality of the controversial Coca plant. We were impressed to learn that the Incas used coca as an anesthetic for brain surgery well before European doctors figured out that it would be better to numb the patient rather than just hit them over the head before operation. We ate good food in cafés and restaurants (avoiding street food, sadly, upon the recommendations of practically everyone we talked to) and bought souvenirs while meandering the confusingly twisty, turning, and hilly streets. 

On Wednesday as we walked past a pub, we saw an advertisement for a live football game later that night; Bolivar vs. Santos quarterfinal match in La Paz! I immediately got SO excited. When I lived in Mexico, one of my favorite things to do was watch our local team, the Monarcas, play at the local stadium! This match was going to be good one too, I knew, since it was the local Bolivian team versus a Brazilian team trying to get into the top four in the Santander South American champion’s tournament. So without much thought, we jumped in a taxi, sped off to the stadium, bought excellent tickets right in front of center field, grabbed a quick bite to eat and some fan gear (Bolivar scarves to show our support to the home team) and were swept up in the excitement of a real South American football game! I knew a lot of the cheers from my time in Mexico, we just had to change the team name, so Tim and I sang and cheered and cursed with the rest of stadium. It was a great game, with the home team scoring a goooooolllllllll! within the first 2 minutes, then Santos tying the game in the first half and Bolivar getting a game winning goal in the second half. The stadium went wild with confetti, fireworks, dynamite, cheers, songs and dancing. It was exhilarating!

We kept the adrenaline high going the next day too, as we had planned a tour with the most reputable mountain bike company to ride down the “Death Road” from La Paz to the Bolivian jungle. The road is about 3,500 meters (about 2.25 miles) of pure downhill. It used to be the only road from La Paz to the jungle, and was built by hundreds of POWs from Paraguay (many of whom died in the making, which is how the road got its name). In parts, the road is narrow and has a sheer drop off to the jungle floor below. Nowadays cars use a new bypass and the road is mostly used by tourists seeking the thrill of biking downhill on this beautiful, scary, fun road. We woke early for the tour to get fitted with safety equipment (full face helmet, long pants, gloves and a bright orange safety vest for visibility) and test out our full suspension mountain bikes. After a safety briefing we proceeded, led by our two experienced guides, down the road.

Our ride was comprised of two parts. The first was the paved road that started in the cold mountains outside La Paz, where we sped down with ease at about 50km/hour or so. As we zoomed down it got warmer and we came to the second part of the ride, where the road turned to gravel, the mountains turned into jungle and the sheer drop off to the jungle floor was at our side. Here we slowed down (a bit) and took more care around the turns. We knew our limits and didn’t push ourselves to do anything stupid, neither of us wanted to end up careening off the cliff. Needless to say it was a thrill. We stopped at points for photo ops (our guides took all the pictures, and would often ride ahead to take photos of us riding, we should be getting that DVD when we get back to La Paz tomorrow) and snacks. The scenery was stunning but we mostly focused on the road while we were riding, because we are sensible like that. When we finally reached the bottom, we were pumped up on adrenaline and pride! The tour ended with a buffet lunch, some beers and a dip in a swimming pool! It was a super fun day!

You can see the "Death Road" behind me!

The Sock Monkeys survived the Death Road too!

Tim and I had decided ahead of time to stay in Coroico, a town near the bottom of the valley where our tour ended. That’s where we are now, in a hostel like no other, called Sol y Luna, which had been recommended by our Irish friend Catherine. This place is about 15-minute drive outside the sleepy, jungle town of Coroico, and is more of a nature retreat than a hostel. There are two different swimming pools, a hot tub available, a meditation room, plenty of walking paths and hammocks strung under cabanas, private cabins and a dorm, and a restaurant with lovely friendly staff. Yesterday when we arrived it was sunny and warm and reminded us of Guyana. We took a nap in a hammock and read, enjoying the stunning views of the valley and taking a well-deserved rest after the ride. Friday, however, it was raining and overcast so we weren’t able to enjoy the views or walk the grounds and swim in the pools as we had planned. We didn’t mind though, we were content reading in our cozy room, listening to the rain fall, watching the lemon trees and flowers shiver under the raindrops outside our window and occasionally popping over to the restaurant for fresh yogurt, coffee, tea and other deliciousness.

Our lovely hostel retreat

Overlooking the valleys of the Yungas

On Saturday, we decided to stay in Coroico for a day longer since, when we woke up, the weather was beautiful and we didn’t get a chance to explore the day before.  We took advantage of the sunshine and washed  a load of our stinky traveler laundry washed and hung it out to dry (only a few more hand-washing loads of laundry and we will be back in the land’o washing machines, hooray!). Then we headed out with a map of the surrounding hillsides to find three nearby waterfalls. Our hike was stunning. The hills overlooked the coca fields and small in the valley below, multicolored butterflies fluttered all around. It was apparent that not a lot of travelers go on the trails we hiked because, in parts, the trail was so over grown that we had to push our way through shoulder high grass, vines and flowers and jump over streams that covered the entire path. We felt like true jungle explorers. The waterfalls were nice but the beauty of hike itself was our reward.

Waterfalls and good company makes for a good hike!

Waterfall fun

Monkeys in the Yungas

We ended our day trek in Coroico with a tasty snack of saltenas (sweet and savory empanada like pies full of chicken, potato, eggs and other goodness) and homemade ice cream. Then we headed back to our oasis hostel for a dip in the pool to cool off. We were so happy that the weather was warm and we could enjoy the Yungas. Tomorrow we are off to La Paz where we will post pictures on this blog in an internet café, Tim might get a haircut in the barbershop and then we will take a night bus to Uyuni to see the famous, largest salt flats in the world! Life is good and we are happy!

Adorable Bolivian kiddos and moms in traditional dress chill in the Plaza

Beautiful, traditionally dressed Afro-Bolivian ladies in the Coroico plaza

Day 20: Isla Del Sol

One of the beaches on Isla Del Sol

This morning Chelsea woke up feeling better, so we boarded our morning boat to the largest Island in Lago Titikaka, the Isla del Sol or the Island of the Sun. The Incans believed that the Sun and the Moon were created on this Island, from the sacred rock. Moreover, they believe their founding father, Manco Capac, also emerged from this island. It is a very sacred place to the Andean people. And after visiting it, I understand why.

We didn’t have much time only about 2 hours since we needed to catch a boat back to Copa to get a bus to La Paz (where we are now), but we tried to make the most of it. We disembarked on the north side of the island where most of the ruins and sacred places are. The ruins were about a 40 minute walk away, but as we began the hike Chelsea still felt a little weak so she asked me to continue on, while she took a nap on the beach.   I heeded her advice and saw some of the most stunning scenery.

The first thing that struck me as I ascended towards the archeological site was how blue the water was. It was a Caribbean blue, blue like sapphires, blue like the deepest blue one could imagine. But it was also crystal clear.  The landscape looked harsh, but fertile. Pre-Incan terraces lined the nearby hills. Corn, coca, and grains decorated the fields; some near houses, while some sat off in the distance. I climbed higher, and then down towards the ruins. I passed the sacred rock, that some tourists were touching, and the sacrificial table that sat alone in a clearing. I wandered through the temple ruins running my hands over the ancient stones lost in wonder at how it looked before the Spanish came. If only stones could talk, right? I climbed a nearby hill for some more awe-inspiring panoramas, and then began to walk back. I made it back to beach where Chels was sitting scanning the lake, and then we caught the boat back.

It was a quick excursion but completely worth it. The memories and adventures are some that I will never forget.    

The water is so blue, yet so clear. Check out the terraces in the background

Some of the fertile fields on the Island

Such amazing scenery. Fields and fishing go hand in hand.

It looks so desolate, but yet it is so full of life. Those are the temple ruins in the foreground

Some more beautiful scenery.

Tourists touch the sacred rock. This is where they believe the Sun and Moon were born

The sacrificial table sits alone before the ruins

The ruins of the temple and another beach.

The water is so blue, so inspiring. This is from the mirador on the hill before I turned back

Our last afternoon in Copa, form our Hotel before we caught the bus

Days 18 and 19: Copacabana and Lake Titicaca

On the Shores of Lake Titicaca..I only get to say the name without giggling 5 times a day :)

We finally left Peru behind and entered into the unknown territory of Bolivia. The bus trip from Arequipa was a struggle, but once we got to Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca on the Peru side, it was easy.  

Copacabana is only a 3 or 4 hour trip from Puno, so we left about 730 am and were given the “panorama” seats in the front on the top of one of the double-decker tour busses. The rural views were amazing. Peru left us one last gift. It is such an amazing part of the world.  Houses, that looked to be made with ancient adobe bricks, lined the two-lane highways set amidst large fields of wheat and Quinoa and terraced hills. Lake Titicaca, imposing and reflecting the mid-morning sun, kept her place to the left of the bus as we circled her to the Bolivia side. Field-workers and their children, for it was a Saturday, toiled away walking bulls, making rope, planting and reaping seeds and tubers.  Many were dressed in the traditional Peruvian fashion of thick, multi-colored skirts and blouses. Before long we had come to the border of Bolivia.

We were a little worried about the crossing since we knew we had to fill out tons of paperwork to get our visitor visas and the bus only gave us 20 minutes. However, we were not the last on the bus even though Chelsea had to run to change money in order to get copies of our passports.

We entered Copacabana and were struck by its sleepy quality: perfect for relaxing. There are European and South American tourists here and there (but no Americans), but for the most part when it’s not festival time many of the hostels, stores, and restaurants remain closed. We wondered around the village, finding the market and the local spots (as Peace Corps has so well taught us) and admiring the immensity of Lake Titicaca, the legendary lake of the Incas.

I like the clash of old style boats and the new.

On the other side of Copa, the lake continues.

We had a slight hiccup when there was a football game on around 2 pm that shut everything down and we wanted to eat some food, but luckily we found this awesome family run restaurant that made us a gigantic delicious pizza with ham, olives, cheese, and sausage baked on fresh homemade dough.

With full bellies we took a walk up the hill overlooking the city and got some amazing panoramic shots. As night fell we went back to our hostel for a relaxing night of TV and a bottle of wine.

'Winter is coming'...sorry watched too much Game of Thrones. Here is the main cathedral, storm clouds gather.

From the overlook. Copa stretches in the background

Day 19:

We were supposed to catch a boat to the Isla Del Sol today, but in the night Chelsea got really sick, and when morning came she wasn’t doing much better. So I’m taking care of her the best I could with water, soup, and tea. It’s a pretty mellow day just running some errands and taking it easy.

We're leaving for the Isla around 830 tomorrow morning and spending the day there. We will update when we're in La Paz. 

Some more beautiful scenery form the mirador

The setting sun from our hotel window. Too beautiful

Day 16 and 17: Colca Canyon

Yesterday at 3am Tim and I woke up woke up to get on our bus to the Colca Canyon. In our last blog we mentioned that it was twice as large as the Grand Canyon but to compare the two is impossible. I’ve never seen the Grand Canyon but I know that it is a sheer drop into expansive emptiness. The Colca Canyon has steep drops too, in some parts, but in others the mountains slope down and people have carved out terraces to allow for villages and farming industry in the canyon itself.  

Two soaring condors

Tim, happy to see condors

We arrived at the canyon at 9am and got our first glimpse of the amazing Andean condors, which have an average of 3meter wingspan. We watched these huge birds soar over the river below, looking for food or hapless tourists, before we proceeded on to the start of out trek. At the town of Cabanaconda we met up with our tour group, a quiet bunch including some friendly Argentinian computer techies, travelers from Holland and British teenagers on their Gap year. Led by our kind guide, Carlos, we proceeded to descend into a very steep portion of the canyon for a 3.5 hour trek to the bottom. Near the bottom we stopped for lunch, made with fresh ingredients from the family farm in the canyon (the fresh avocados were the best!). After lunch, we had another 3.5 hours to hike to our campground and on the way Carlos stopped to teach us about the medicinal plants, fruits and bugs that grow in the canyon. We made iodine paste with leaves and red face paint (pre-Inca lipstick and rouge) with the squished up bodies of pill bugs that live on cacti (gross I know, but these things were a hot commodity in ancient times for cosmetic and artistic use). 

Our campsite was very rustic. Tim and I slept in “cabanas” which were basically mud huts, with mud floors (since it had been raining on the last hour of the hike) and thatched roofs and walls. We really didn’t want to imagine what was creeping and crawling around us. However, after 7 hours of straight hiking, a few hours of chatting in Spanish and hot, spiked coca tea with our Argentine friends, we slept like babies. 

This morning we awoke at 4:30am, not-quite ready for the 3.5 hour hike directly ascending the freaking 9,000ft+ canyon walls. Breakfast awaited us at the top, and was my incentive for trudging up the treacherous switchbacks in the cold, misty morning. How would you like to wake up at 4am and climb the fucking Stairmaster for 3.5 hours? Yeah, me neither. But Tim was very supportive and stuck with me the whole way, reminding me that breakfast and warmth awaited me at the top. We also stopped frequently to take pictures and admire the view (well, that was my excuse for catching my breath and trying not to puke).  But we made it! And breakfast was delicious! 

Colca Canyon

Descending into the canyon

Carlos climbed a tree to bring us pacay, or whitee, fruit growing on the trail. Yum, reminded us of Guyana!

A family farm on the way to lunch in the canyon yesterday

Tim and Carlos, our guide, loved the crazy-eyed cat at lunch yesterday

Tim was happy to be trekking up a canyon!

I was not so thrilled to be plodding upwards at 5am!

The beautiful sunrise was worth it!

Feeling victorious at the top of the canyon

Sunflowers and corn on the way to breakfast today

Checking out the amazingly beautiful pre-Incan terraces

The beautiful arch welcoming us to Chivay and breakfast!

The rest of our tour was by bus and it was easy and fun. We stopped in a few villages for photo ops at churches, with locals and local fauna (condors and alpaca, oh my!). When we arrived back in Arequipa we had a local dinner of rotisserie chicken and chips and headed to our hostel where we had stored the majority of our junk. We showered (hot showers, yay!) and are checking in on the net before we head out on a night bus in a few hours to our next destination: Copacabana, Bolivia, on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Hasta pronto!  

It wouldn't be a trip to Peru without the obligatory photo of alpacas!

I paid 1 sole to put a condor on my head......yup, I'm a tourist!